Emerging Fashion Label Commission Sets Its Sights On Europe

New York – Commission, the innovative fashion label founded by Dylan Cao and Jin Kay, is making waves in the industry. Cao, originally from Vietnam, and Kay, from South Korea, both emigrated to the United States as children. Since its inception, the label has been recognized for its unique perspective on East Asian culture, notably earning a nomination for the LVMH Prize in 2020. The founders are now looking to expand their influence across Europe.

FashionNetwork: Six years into its journey, Commission has become a prominent name among emerging American fashion brands. Was it a pressing concern for you to establish Commission?

Jin Kay: When we met in 2018, both of us were employed at other design houses in New York. We noticed a significant gap in sophisticated and respectful references to Asian culture in fashion. Often, Asian culture was presented through a Westernized lens, focusing on traditional motifs or veering into clichés. We believed we could provide a more personal perspective as designers who experienced Asia firsthand before moving to the U.S. Hence, there was an urgency in creating Commission to present a more authentic and honest portrayal of our heritage.

FNW: Your brand has been instrumental in challenging stereotypes about Asian culture in fashion. Have you observed any progress in this area?

Dylan Cao: The term “progress” is multifaceted. While there’s been an increase in the representation of Asian culture across various platforms, the key measure of progress is the depth and authenticity of that representation. At Commission, our focus is on genuine storytelling and design that reflects our lived experiences and heritage. Nuance is crucial to us, evident in our casting and design narratives. While the rise in Asian cultural representation is positive, it sometimes results in brands and creatives resorting to stereotypes for visibility, which contradicts our aim of presenting a nuanced view.