Fashion theorist Maria Luisa Frisa posed a critical question while organizing the “Memorabile.Ipermoda” exhibition at the MAXXI Museum in Rome: “What has fashion become today?”
During a preview of the exhibition, Frisa emphasized the challenges facing the fashion industry. She noted that the showcase raises unresolved questions about the current state of fashion. “Fashion has undergone incredible transformations,” she explained, highlighting how financial interests have taken precedence over clothing itself. In contrast to earlier times when garments were central to fashion, today they are often seen as just the final step in a complex process.
Frisa pointed out that fashion brands are increasingly blending various elements, including cultural influences, to express their values and reach broader audiences. The exhibition’s title reflects this notion of memory, connecting heritage and archives, which are vital to designers. The selected pieces aim to leave a lasting impression and have been frequently photographed.
The exhibition also addresses the evolving concept of image in an age dominated by social media. Frisa remarked that everything is now “Instagrammable,” which has transformed how photos and campaigns are produced. Brands are now staging shows in unique locations to capture attention and ensure their designs are remembered.
Among the standout pieces displayed in the museum’s Galleria 5 are a floral print dress by Francesco Risso for Marni, worn by actress Simona Tabasco at last year’s Emmys, and a silk jacquard dress from Balenciaga’s fall 2021 collection. Other notable items include Miu Miu’s wool sweater layered over embroidered slips, a silk georgette dress by Alessandro Michele for Valentino, and a striking jacket by Armani Privé.
Frisa described fashion as a “sarabande,” reflecting how street style is often spontaneous and unplanned. The exhibition installation, created by Supervoid, features clothes showcased against shiny, liquid-like backgrounds in a palette reminiscent of makeup colors.
Frisa expressed her interest in contemporary fashion as a conceptual exploration of the relationship between the body and clothing. She proudly included pieces that have never been exhibited in Italy before, such as Virgil Abloh’s skyline puffers for Louis Vuitton.
The exhibition also features menswear designs like Craig Green’s wooden frame ensemble and Rick Owens’ jumpsuit. It showcases innovative collaborations like Fendace (Versace’s creative partnership with Fendi) and artistic projects involving designers like Raf Simons and Iris Van Herpen.
Accessories on display include JW Anderson’s bird clutch and Pharrell Williams’ pixelated trunk for Louis Vuitton.
Frisa acknowledged the challenge of curating such an exhibition, stating that it is always an incomplete narrative. Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, praised Frisa’s expertise, noting that the exhibition highlights both heritage and innovation while capturing the essence of contemporary fashion.
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, emphasized that memorable fashion transcends mere recognition. He likened fashion to jewelry, suggesting both art forms enhance each other. Babin noted that while fashion trends evolve, brands must remain attuned to their clients’ needs without losing their identity.
Bulgari has supported emerging artists at MAXXI since 2018, contributing to the promotion of new talent on an international scale. The “Memorabile.Ipermoda” exhibition opens on November 27, 2024, marking it as a significant event for reflecting on contemporary fashion.
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