Rumors swirled through the fashion industry over the summer as top design positions at prestigious brands like Valentino, Givenchy, and Chanel became available. Many expected Clare Waight Keller, the British designer best known for her work at Chloé and Givenchy, to take on a major role. However, in a surprising turn, Waight Keller took on a new challenge—joining Japanese high-street giant Uniqlo as the creative director overseeing both men’s and women’s wear.
The move is part of a larger industry trend, with more designers turning to accessible fashion. Celebrities like Sienna Miller and Kate Moss have launched collections for brands like M&S and Zara, while Zac Posen now leads Gap’s creative direction. Waight Keller’s decision to work with Uniqlo, which is known for its affordable basics, reflects this shift towards more accessible fashion offerings.
Bringing Femininity to Uniqlo’s Women’s Wear
Waight Keller’s goal at Uniqlo is to introduce a feminine touch and Western sensibility to the brand, which is renowned for its practical and unisex clothing, particularly its heat-tech thermals. “Their women’s wear always had a unisex feel, and I felt a lack of femininity that could attract a new customer base,” Waight Keller explains from her home in Cornwall, where she is recovering from jet lag after a recent visit to Uniqlo’s headquarters in Tokyo.
Waight Keller’s partnership with Uniqlo isn’t new. She began talks with the company three years ago and launched the first of three Uniqlo: C capsule collections in September 2023, which garnered positive reviews from fashion editors. The collaboration was an exciting new direction for her, with the designer spending more time in Tokyo and merging her efforts with Uniqlo’s main line.
Uniqlo’s Appeal Grows Among Stylish Shoppers
Uniqlo has become a favorite among fashion-conscious shoppers, rivaling brands like Zara and Mango. It is increasingly known for its guest designer collections, which have featured collaborations with names like JW Anderson, Anya Hindmarch, and former Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire.
“There is a pride in wearing Uniqlo,” Waight Keller says, adding that she enjoys wearing their high-quality, reasonably priced cashmere sweaters. “The lack of logos makes it universal, and the clothes are beautifully made and great value. It’s democratic, offering timeless pieces that are not driven by fast-moving trends.”
Fashion and Personal Style: A Mix of High and Low
Waight Keller emphasizes that dressing well today is all about mixing high-end pieces with affordable ones. “I have 21-year-old daughters who wear high-street clothes and then buy designer bags or shoes second-hand,” she says. “It’s about the mix, and there’s no shame in it. High and low can coexist.”
Waight Keller also has a 13-year-old son and lives with her architect husband Peter in West London. Originally from Birmingham, she moved to London at 17 to study at Ravensbourne College. After cutting her teeth at Calvin Klein and Gucci, she returned to London for its multicultural vibrancy.
Championing Diversity in Fashion Leadership
Despite her success, Waight Keller remains passionate about improving diversity in fashion. She advocates for more women in leadership roles at luxury fashion houses. “We need to see more women at the top. The industry is still underserved in this regard,” she says.
Her support extends to Sarah Burton, the newly appointed creative director of Givenchy, wishing her well while expressing concern over the high fashion industry’s future. Waight Keller believes the rising prices in luxury fashion are a troubling sign, noting that items that cost less just a few years ago are now far more expensive.
A New Path in Fashion
For Waight Keller, her work at Uniqlo is not a retreat from high fashion. While she still cherishes her couture experience, she finds satisfaction in creating designs that are accessible to a wide range of people. “I think good design should be for everyone,” she says. “It’s incredibly rewarding to see so many people wear my designs. And for now, I’m enjoying this new path.”
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