This past January, under Paris’s Pont Alexandre III, Maison Margiela’s latest artisanal collection unfolded like a time capsule of fashion’s grand, theatrical past. Models embodied 19th-century figures, while French cabaret singer Lucky Love performed live alongside a gospel choir. Among the standout moments, actress Gwendoline Christie paraded in a striking latex corset, and the models showcased radiant, almost otherworldly “glass skin,” blending elements of Brassaï’s photography with a futuristic edge. It was a spectacular display of creativity, one that harked back to the 1980s and 1990s era when fashion shows were synonymous with bold imagination.
In an era where newness seems to be overshadowed by a preference for quiet luxury, algorithm-driven trends, and commercial safety, Galliano’s show was a refreshing break from the norm. However, this was nothing new for the designer. Since the start of his career, Galliano has been known for transforming runway shows into true events—memorable spectacles that push the boundaries of fashion. His 1994 spring show, featuring supermodels Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Linda Evangelista, at the São Schlumberger mansion, or his dramatic 2004 Dior collection inspired by Empress Sisi, are prime examples of his flair for the theatrical.
Galliano’s debut at Maison Margiela marked the beginning of his tenure as the house’s creative director, and he continued to showcase his knack for staging iconic fashion moments. Whether it was turning a burlap coat and plastic-bag wedding gown into statement pieces in the 2015 fall collection, or presenting outlandish, comic-book-style heroines in the 2019 spring show, Galliano’s approach never lacked character. Each collection featured models with distinct personas, each requiring their own story and dramatic performance.
Throughout his time at Margiela, Galliano redefined what a runway show could be. He blended high fashion with unconventional materials and concepts, collaborated with visionaries like makeup artist Pat McGrath and movement director Pat Boguslawski, and always aimed to create a sense of wonder, rather than simply showcasing clothes for sale.
Galliano’s departure from Margiela was announced today, with the designer citing his commitment to “slow and ethical fashion” as a key influence on his work. As speculation swirls about his next move, it’s important to reflect on the remarkable imprint Galliano has left on the fashion world, maintaining an uncompromising vision while honoring the traditions of couture.
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