Whenever Senegal’s President Bassirou Diomaye Faye and Prime Minister Ousmane Sonko make public appearances, social media is quick to praise their stylish outfits. “His tailor deserves a medal,” said one admirer, while others claim that Faye’s fashion sense surpasses that of any other world leader. In fact, many customers in Dakar now visit tailors asking for outfits inspired by the president’s wardrobe.
The style worn by Faye and Sonko is called “tradi-modern,” a blend of traditional Senegalese attire with a more urban, modern twist. Designer Xalil Cissé notes that this style has been gaining popularity for the past decade, especially among young people. Ousseynou Owens Ndiaye, a designer who has dressed Prime Minister Sonko since 2016, explains that young Senegalese men used to wear traditional clothing only for special occasions. Now, the “tradi-modern” style can be seen everywhere—at offices, bars, and even in mosques.
A Blend of Tradition and Modernity
“Tradi-modern” fashion combines classic elements of traditional clothing with modern designs. One of the key items is the “demi-saison” (half-season), a garment that is longer than a shirt but shorter than the traditional boubou. It has a round or Mandarin collar and a zipper or button row running from the collar to the chest. Tailors often add African fabrics, like bogolan or wax prints, to the tunic to give it a unique, local flair.
Another popular piece is the “Turki ndiarem,” originally worn by clerics in white or ecru, but now available in a variety of colors and worn as part of everyday attire. This style is also embraced by both the president and young people.
Modern Tweaks to Traditional Wear
Tailors are also incorporating European influences, such as epaulets on Senegalese tunics, which have become popular among the country’s top executives and politicians. The president is also fond of the “Saharan” style, a local adaptation of European dress. This garment replaces the typical lapel collar with a Mandarin collar, and subtle details like discreet seams and slits give it a modern touch.
Designer Cissé compares the “Saharan” style to the abacost, a Congolese garment from the Zaire era—elegant but distinctly different from Western suits.
A New Generation of Designers
While former president Macky Sall often wore Western suits for daily wear, the younger leaders, in their 40s, prefer “tradi-modern” clothing that blends local and global influences. This fashion trend reflects the changing attitudes between older and younger generations in Senegal.
Senegal now boasts a growing number of fashion brands that promote “Made in Senegal” clothing. Popular labels like Owens, Keyfa, and Simple Chic dress the country’s political elite, but many of these brands are cautious about revealing specific clients. These outfits, which are often priced between 90,000 and 200,000 CFA francs (roughly €140–€300), reflect a mix of quality fabrics and craftsmanship.
“Made in SeZnegal” Fashion
There are about 61,000 sewing workshops in Senegal, and the country’s fashion industry is thriving, particularly due to the rise of social media. Designers like Owens Ndiaye have expanded their businesses, with some even opening boutiques in neighboring countries like Mali and Nigeria. Senegalese fashion is gaining recognition for its unique craftsmanship.
However, there is a challenge. Most of the fabrics used in “tradi-modern” clothing are imported from places like Turkey, Asia, or Europe. Despite this, local designers are hopeful that with government support, Senegal could eventually develop its own textile industry.
“We can’t do everything locally right now, but we’re working on it,” said Owens Ndiaye. “The new authorities understand our challenges, and I hope they will help us develop a stronger textile sector.”
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