Phoebe Philo is a master of oversizing, and her third collection, “Collection C,” is full of soft lines and lightweight fabrics, but these clothes are not for the meek.
The highlights are hidden details, such as loose zip-up cuffs, exposed rivet soles, and a brushed mohair wool trench with snakeskin texture, each piece can speak on its own without stealing the spotlight. Among the more sculptural designs, a waterfall skirt that seemed to defy gravity was reminiscent of the Schiaparelli Couture look that Ariana Grande wore recently on the Oscars red carpet, but the earthy brown hue that Philo chose was more suitable for the low-key autumn atmosphere.
Accessories reinforced the rustic palette, including Philo’s signature oversized sunglasses and a range of utilitarian footwear, with trousers stacked atop zip-up suede platform booties, while burgundy knee-high and square-toed ankle boots provided sturdy support for Philo’s modern and seemingly effortless woman.
Coiled silhouettes, tent-like leather tailoring, and relaxed tie-dyed knitwear resisted the tight, sharp power dressing that dominated the runways this season. Instead, menswear silhouettes were directly applied, such as the monochrome charcoal grey suit and the tobacco-colored “Man’s Coat”, showing effortless transformation. Of course, Philo has never danced to the trends. Her unique design language has long been a school of its own, which can be seen in the brand’s unconventional lookbook and distribution methods.
“Collection C” will be available on Phoebephilo.com from mid-2025 to November, and will be sold in selected retailers around the world such as Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Lafayette Paris and 10 Corso Como.