Can Remain Become Copenhagen’s Next Major Export?

Birger Christensen Collective is revitalizing Remain under the guidance of new creative director Martin Asbjørn. Ahead of his second show for the brand, Vogue Business engages in a conversation with Asbjørn and CEO Denise Christensen to uncover their vision and strategy.

Today at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Remain Birger Christensen will showcase its second collection since its reboot under Asbjørn, a celebrated Copenhagen designer who closed his namesake label in 2022. The debut collection from last season made a strong impression, securing 15 new retailers. This show aims to solidify the new direction for Remain, which Birger Christensen Collective hopes to expand, following the success of its partywear label Rotate. With the notable absence of major Scandinavian label Ganni at this season’s CPHFW, Remain has a prime opportunity to gain prominence.

“It’s always more nerve-wracking to do [show] number two,” says Asbjørn, who led his own brand for eight years before shutting it down in 2022 due to economic challenges. “After the first show, I was so excited, which has never happened to me before. At my own brand, I always felt that certain things could have been better. This [Remain] show came to life the way I wanted it to,” he shares. “The response was really positive. But even if the reviews hadn’t been good, I’d still be excited to continue.”

Remain, known for its leather and tailoring, was launched in 2019 as a timeless “affordable luxury” label, creating pieces that “remain in your wardrobe, but with a design edge,” explains Birger Christensen Collective CEO Denise Christensen. “Remain is focused on tailoring and leather, and they were my best selling categories at my brand, so I knew it was a good fit,” says Asbjørn, who introduced his vision for Remain with a pre-fall 2024 collection in January this year. While Rotate targets the dancefloor, Remain offers a more classic, casual wardrobe designed for the working woman. Pieces range from €150 for a T-shirt to €1,350 for a coat.

Christensen served as the creative director of Remain until Asbjørn’s appointment, initially working on just five looks per season in three colorways. Recognizing the need to expand, she sought someone to take over and strengthen the brand. “Remain got bigger and bigger, and I needed to find someone to take over, to secure and strengthen the business,” she says. She appointed Asbjørn in late 2023 after meeting him through a colleague. “As soon as I saw Martin’s portfolio and his knowledge of detail and craftsmanship, I knew he was right for Remain. I had the ideas but wasn’t educated in these techniques, so it’s really exciting.”