Ellen Hodakova Larsson, the designer behind the Swedish label Hodakova, is on the rise after winning this year’s prestigious LVMH Prize. At the award ceremony in Paris, jury member Phoebe Philo, known for her warmth, greeted Larsson with a heartfelt hug. “She was so proud and so happy,” Larsson recalled in a recent interview. “She’s just such a humble person.” The moment marked a turning point for the designer, not just because her brand was gaining recognition, but also because of the high-profile company she now keeps. Larsson remembers chatting with actress Natalie Portman, and even designer Marc Jacobs pushing past Portman to express his admiration. “I’m so honored to be able to get that kind of response from these people,” she said.
Larsson’s journey to prominence has been swift since launching her brand in 2021. Her unique, handcrafted designs have quickly gained attention from the fashion world’s elite, including Kylie Jenner and Cate Blanchett, who both wore her creations this year. Blanchett donned a top made from antique silver spoons, while Greta Lee wore a piece crafted from old leather riding boots. Her designs, celebrated for their transformative silhouettes and sustainable ethos, are winning fans for their inventive use of upcycled materials and their nod to craftsmanship.
Larsson’s collections, made in small batches, often feature upcycled fabrics sourced through partnerships with independent artisans. Her runway shows draw inspiration from her childhood spent on a horse farm outside Stockholm. Everyday garments, such as a simple argyle sweater, are reimagined into something entirely new with the addition of unexpected elements like a pencil skirt made from cross-woven belts.
The Spring 2025 collection, showcased in Paris this September, exemplified this approach. It included a fringe dress crafted entirely from zippers and sheath tops made from linen dishcloths with red piping. Larsson’s work calls to mind designers like Martin Margiela and Demna, who also challenge conventional materials, but her style is rooted in warmth and simplicity.
“I have quite a strong and clear vision of where I’m going,” Larsson said when reflecting on the sudden spotlight her brand has found itself in. “I feel secure in the flow of my creation. Craftsmanship is always at the core of what I do.” Her dedication to craft was instilled from an early age. Growing up with a mother who was a seamstress, Larsson learned the value of reworking and repurposing materials. As a student of sculpture and art at The Swedish School of Textiles, she discovered a passion for creating shapes around the human body, rather than flat surfaces.
Larsson’s design philosophy is rooted in timelessness. While others may chase trends, she believes in creating garments that stand the test of time. Inspired by the military uniforms of her father, she embraces the idea of clothes as a medium for self-expression and transformation. “Every time I create, my goal is to surprise myself,” she explained. “If I don’t feel that tension, I won’t include it. That’s what makes creating exciting.”
Hodakova’s design process is as much about experimentation as it is about respect for the past. She doesn’t follow a formula but instead develops her pieces organically, often starting with the materials themselves. Inspiration comes from diverse sources, such as a recent documentary on the Swedish royal family’s clothing archive. Larsson also draws on her personal history, including her equestrian background and her early musical influences, to inform her designs.
Despite the challenges of scaling a brand that relies on rare, upcycled materials, Larsson remains committed to her approach. “I love being an entrepreneur,” she said with a smile. “It’s all about trying new things and following your gut feeling. You learn by doing.” While the path ahead may not be easy, she’s undeterred, embracing the journey and the lessons it brings.
Post-LVMH, Larsson’s personal life hasn’t changed much, though her brand is now receiving more attention, funding, and celebrity interest. What sets her apart, however, is her steadfast belief in the transformative power of fashion. For Larsson, fashion isn’t just about clothes—it’s about creating something new, something that pushes boundaries. “I’m looking for a more creative, exciting, and curious world to be in,” she says. In her world, even the most ordinary materials hold infinite possibilities.
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