In 2022, Humberto Leon, former creative director of Kenzo and co-founder of Opening Ceremony, took on a new challenge: becoming the creative director for the K-pop-inspired international girl group Katseye. Reflecting on the decision, Leon describes it as an act of “blind faith.”
The move came after Leon relocated to Los Angeles during the pandemic, where he opened a family-run restaurant. In his role overseeing design and marketing, he found the restaurant became an extension of his storytelling expertise. “It felt like Opening Ceremony in a restaurant,” he shared with Fashionista. “I realized I could bring the same storytelling approach I had in fashion to other areas, creating a unique flow that felt authentic.”
His connection to the music world deepened when he directed the music video for “Growing Up” by The Linda Lindas. The video caught the attention of Geffen Records, and Leon soon received an offer from Michelle An, the label’s executive vice president, to join a new project. This project was Katseye, a girl group formed through the Dream Academy—a yearlong K-pop-style training and competition program.
Leon was brought on board while the Dream Academy was still recruiting its 20 finalists. “They told me it was a global girl group blending K-pop with Western pop,” he recalls. “It was both Geffen and Hybe, East and West—a lot to take in with no blueprint to follow.” Despite the complexities, Leon trusted his instincts and accepted the role.
From the outset, Leon focused on understanding the trainees’ personalities, cultural backgrounds, and individual style preferences. The final six members—Sophia Laforteza, Manon Bannerman, Lara Raj, Yoonchae Jeong, Daniela Avanzini, and Megan Meiyok Skiendiel—were chosen for their distinctiveness, which Leon sought to highlight in their wardrobes.
Given the group’s cultural diversity, Leon incorporates subtle cultural elements into their outfits. For example, with Lara Raj, who is of Indian descent, Leon has used traditional Indian jewelry, including pieces from Lara’s mother, to celebrate her heritage. “It’s about infusing each member’s individuality into the looks,” he explains.
While Katseye doesn’t adhere to one specific style, a late-’90s and Y2K influence is evident in their wardrobe choices—low-rise pants, crop tops, and baggy jeans. Leon also draws inspiration from muses like Devon Aoki and Chloë Sevigny, and ’90s editorial shoots, blending these influences with his own approach to fashion.
A key aspect of Leon’s creative direction is encouraging the group to experiment with various styles and proportions. “I want them to feel great and confident,” he says. “Sometimes I challenge them to try new things outside their comfort zone.”
Sustainability plays an important role in Leon’s styling process. He often incorporates vintage pieces from designers like Nicholas Ghesquière-era Balenciaga and John Galliano-era Dior, alongside emerging young designers. “It’s about mixing old and new,” Leon says, “bringing fresh ideas to the table while respecting fashion history.” He also praises Katseye’s fandom, Eyekons, for their deep knowledge of fashion, noting that fans have even recognized vintage pieces worn in the group’s music videos.
Incorporating a mix of established brands such as Maison Margiela and Prada with up-and-coming designers like Knwls and Conner Ives, Leon strives to create a “perfect balance of brands” that supports both luxury and young designers. This mix helps position Katseye as not just a musical group, but also a force in the fashion world.
While getting brands to collaborate with new artists can be challenging, Leon credits his long-standing industry relationships for helping Katseye secure early partnerships. “Certain brands jumped on board even before the group became known,” he shares. “It was a sign of faith in the project, even before the public saw the potential.”
Despite the challenges of working with a diverse group, Leon relishes the creative freedom Katseye offers. “There’s no blueprint for this group, which gives me the freedom to push boundaries and create something truly unique.”
With his extensive fashion background, Leon believes that the world of fashion is the best training ground for understanding branding and predicting future trends. “Fashion teaches you how to see what’s next and how to craft something ahead of the curve.”
Looking to 2025, Leon is excited to see Katseye’s continued rise in the fashion world. The group has already made waves by attending the Coach Spring 2025 show at New York Fashion Week and gracing the covers of InStyle and Teen Vogue. Luxury brand ambassadorships for the members are also on the horizon.
“Katseye represents the future,” Leon says. “They embody something truly special, and people would be lucky to have them as the face of their brand.”
Related topics:
