Stone Island has become a symbol of masculine style, worn by everyone from Drake to Keir Starmer. But it was on the terraces where the brand made its biggest impact. We sat down with Carlo Rivetti, the chairman and former owner of Stone Island, to explore how the brand’s story unfolded.
At the Stone Island flagship store in London’s Soho, Rivetti, 68, talks darts and fashion with the ease of a man who has spent decades building one of the most iconic brands in menswear. “The garment you put on your skin, the food you put inside yourself, it’s a very close relationship,” he says, gesturing to the clothes that have defined his career.
Founded in 1982 as a spinoff from Massimo Osti’s menswear empire, Stone Island quickly gained a reputation for its bold, experimental designs. Osti, a former graphic designer with no formal fashion training, used military fabrics and daring color palettes to create a distinctive look that attracted fashion-forward groups across Europe. The brand’s name, inspired by Joseph Conrad’s writing, was just as unconventional.
After Osti’s death in the mid-90s, Rivetti took over, overseeing Stone Island’s growth and success. In 2017, Rivetti sold a 30% stake in the company to Temasek, a Singaporean investment fund, and in 2020, Moncler acquired the remaining 70%, valuing the brand at £1.1 billion.
Rivetti’s latest visit to London includes a book signing for a new coffee-table book chronicling the brand’s history and a screening of a documentary about Stone Island’s factory in Ravarino, Italy. At the event, fans of the brand, some wearing rare pieces, moved Rivetti deeply. “It was really emotional, seeing my life in these unbelievable pieces,” he says.
Stone Island’s rise in the UK is often linked to the European Championships of 1992, when English fans returned from the tournament with bags full of Stone Island gear. The brand’s visibility grew further through football culture, acid house music, and youth subcultures. “The football casuals of the 1980s were like the young men on the Grand Tour,” says Andrew Groves, professor of fashion design at the University of Westminster, “bringing back Italian menswear instead of art or antiquities.”
Stone Island became a fixture in British pop culture, worn by everyone from Oasis to So Solid Crew. The brand’s iconic badge was often seen on TV and in music videos. However, its association with football hooliganism, cemented by its appearance in films like Green Street and Football Factory, led some fans to turn away from it by the late 90s.
Today, Stone Island’s badge appears on celebrities like Liam Gallagher, but also in unexpected places. On the BBC series Industry, the character Rob wears it as a status symbol, while figures like Drake and even political leader Keir Starmer have embraced the brand.
Despite its connection to football, Rivetti is quick to distance Stone Island from hooliganism. “I hate violence,” he says, recalling the 1985 Heysel disaster, which he witnessed firsthand. He’s proud that sports figures now wear Stone Island, acknowledging that while football’s darker side has faded, challenges remain in other countries, including Italy.
Stone Island’s evolution has been shaped by its appeal to masculinity, though the brand recently broke new ground by featuring DJ Peggy Gou in an ad, the first woman to do so. “When people try on the clothes, they stand a little taller,” Rivetti observes, reflecting on the brand’s power to boost confidence.
Now under Moncler’s ownership, Stone Island remains a powerful force in fashion. Rivetti, reflecting on his 40 years at the helm, smiles when asked if he feels like the brand’s “pope.” “No,” he laughs. But he is determined to leave a legacy. “I want my grandchildren to remember what Carlo has done in these last 40 years.” For Rivetti, Stone Island is not just a brand—it’s a religion.
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