Rohit Bal, a pioneering figure in modern Indian fashion, passed away on November 1 at the age of 63 due to cardiac arrest. Known for his extravagant personality and intricate designs, Bal played a pivotal role in shaping the Indian fashion industry. His death was confirmed by his niece, Reshma Punj.
Bal’s legacy in fashion began in the 1980s, during a time when India was transitioning from socialism to a more capitalist economy. Fashion at the time was largely limited to traditional garments and export rejects—Western-style clothing produced in India for overseas markets but failing to meet export standards. Bal was part of a wave of designers who revolutionized Indian fashion by blending traditional elements with contemporary flair.
“He understood the power of craftsmanship,” said Cecilia Morelli, founder of Mumbai’s luxury store Le Mill. Bal’s designs, which fused Indian craft with modern techniques, became a symbol of India’s growing fashion identity.
Bal’s rise to prominence was marked by his use of muslin, velvet, silk, and brocade, as well as his penchant for intricate embroidery. His voluminous gowns, often incorporating Kashmir’s traditional crafts, became signature pieces. “He took cotton muslin, $1 a meter, and used 80 meters for a single piece,” recalled fellow designer Tarun Tahiliani. “He wanted volume. He wanted excess.”
Despite his extravagant lifestyle—complete with lavish parties and a team of male models—Bal’s work was respected for its technical sophistication and artistry. Bandana Tewari, a former editor at Vogue India, described his work as “vibrant” and “erudite.”
Bal’s influence also extended beyond high fashion. He designed everything from uniforms for Indian crews of British Airways to home furnishings, jewelry for Swarovski, and costumes for the Indian version of *Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?* He even created a collection for the Indian wedding of actress Elizabeth Hurley in 2007, including a silver bridal top and skirt.
Born on May 8, 1961, in Srinagar, Kashmir, Bal came from a wealthy family that owned cinemas in both Kashmir and Lahore. After his father’s death when he was 11, Bal, the youngest of seven children, was affectionately called “Gudda,” meaning “boy doll” in Hindi, due to his blond curls and blue eyes. Bal’s early education was at St. Stephen’s College in Delhi, where he was not only an honors student but also an accomplished dancer. He later studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi.
Bal is survived by his brothers Rakesh and Rajiv, and his sister Rupam Khatau. His contributions to Indian fashion remain influential, as he is remembered for pushing boundaries while honoring traditional craftsmanship.
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